2017 Argyle Pinot Noir – Outstanding
by Andy Perdue
“The flagship Pinot Noir for Argyle Winery includes a subtle reference to how the project began under founding winemaker Rollin Soles, that of ‘grower first.’ In 1987, the Texan joined forces with Australian vintner Brian Croser and Oregon viticulturist Allen Holstein to grow Burgundian varieties for the purpose of creating sparkling wine. Argyle soon set the standard in the Pacific Northwest for methode Champenoise, but the Dundee icon also remains one of Oregon’s premier ambassadors for Pinot Noir. This marks the fifth vintage for Nate Klostermann as Argyle’s head winemaker, and the Minnesotan’s years of working alongside Soles continue to show. The 2017 Grower Series is a remarkable effort in many ways, starting the scale of its production, but it’s not particularly surprising considering that it’s a blend of estate plantings Lone Star and Spirit Hill in the Eola-Amity Hills with substantial contributions from historic Knudsen Vineyard in the nearby Dundee Hills. Dense aromas begin with black cherry, horehound and cola. Despite its lighter color, there’s a concentration of fleshy fruit on the entry with black cherry and soft plum. Well-managed tannins create a silkiness to the mouth feel that leads out with pomegranate, sarsaparilla, baking spice and pie cherry filling.”