November 2, 2017

Riesling D’etre

By Penelope Bass

Riesling has ridden a rollercoaster of popularity. Demand for cheap, sweet wines in the ’70s and ’80s led to a flood of poorly made, overly sweet Rieslings until the varietal fell from favor in the ’90s. But Riesling remains an impressive and incredibly versatile wine. With roots in Germany, it’s long been revered for its bright fruit flavors and a tendency to reflect its terroir, such as the slate soils of Mosel, and it’s one of the most food-friendly wines, making it perfect for the holidays. It’s also a varietal that Pacific Northwest producers have found particularly well-suited to their cooler climes, and a number of Rieslings—from pleasingly sweet to bone dry—have helped reclaim the grape’s good name.

Argyle Nuthouse Riesling, 2015
Named for the former hazelnut processing plant that now houses Oregon winery Argyle, the Nuthouse Riesling comes from devigorated rootstocks in their Eola-Amity Hills vineyard. It starts with a creamy sweetness, then finishes dry with notes of crisp, tart fruit.

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